The Travel Guide · Volume 2

Hawai'i, Beyond the Shore

Hawaiʻi is four distinct islands, and no two are quite alike. Whether you're chasing coastlines, culture, or a slower pace entirely, knowing where to go and how to move through each island makes all the difference. Our guide covers where to stay, where to eat, what to do, when to go, and what to pack across Oʻahu, Maui, the Big Island, and Kauaʻi.

What to Wear

The Island Edit

Hawaii calls for lightweight, breathable pieces that look just as good at a beachside lunch as they do at an open-air dinner. Think easy silhouettes, quick-dry fabrics, and styles that transition naturally from day to evening without a change of bag. Discover essential styles that transition seamlessly from your everyday wardrobe to a tropical destination.

Shop Essentials

Apiedi Cargo Shorts

Made for island days that don't stop. Lightweight and polished enough to wear beyond the beach, the Apiedi shorts move from a morning hike to a casual waterfront lunch without missing a step. The cargo pockets are genuinely useful and the silhouette is far more refined than a standard short.

Shop the Apiedi Shorts

Melissa Top

An easy, elevated top that works hard across a Hawaii itinerary. Breathable and beautifully draped, it pairs naturally with our essential travel bottoms for evenings out or with the Apiedi shorts for a daytime look that feels effortlessly put-together.

Shop the Melissa Top

Serena Top

The top that earns compliments without trying. A sleek, refined silhouette that transitions seamlessly from poolside to dinner. This is exactly the kind of piece that makes a warm-weather wardrobe feel complete without adding any weight to the bag.

Shop the Serena Top

Flo Pima Cotton Tank

A clean, elevated tank that works as a base layer under an open shirt or on its own at the beach. Pima cotton keeps it cool and soft against the skin all day. It's perfect when moving between sunny areas, water, and air conditioning.

Shop the Flo Top

Suzette Skort

The ideal piece for Hawaii's casual-meets-polished dress code. The skort silhouette moves beautifully in the island breeze and takes you further into the day than a standard short ever could.

The Insider: Hawaii state law requires reef-safe sunscreen, specifically mineral-based formulas with non-nano zinc oxide. Source it before you arrive rather than attempting to find it at the airport.

Shop the Suzzette Skort

Skyler Travel Pant

A relaxed straight-leg cut in Anatomie's signature wrinkle-free fabric. Lighter and breezier than the Kate Pant, it's ideal for evenings out, equally at home at Bar Acuda in Hanalei or a resort terrace in Wailea. The kind of pant you pack once and reach for every night.

Shop the Skyler

When to Go

April – June · The Considered Window

Spring break crowds have cleared, yet the islands remain at their most comfortable: trade winds steady, rain infrequent on leeward coasts, and the shoulder pricing that savvier travelers have known about for years. Humpback whales are occasionally still spotted off Maui’s south shore through April.

July – August · Peak Season

School holidays fill resorts across every island. Expect elevated rates, competitive dining reservations, and beach parking that requires a strategy. The upside: long evenings, consistent surf on the North Shore’s outer reefs, and a contagious energy that the quieter seasons cannot replicate. Book accommodations three to four months in advance.

September – November · The Insider’s Season

The most underestimated window in Hawaiian travel. Rates fall sharply after Labor Day, beaches return largely to residents, and the weather remains reliably warm across all islands. November marks the beginning of humpback whale season off Maui, which is a sight that justifies the trip on its own.

December – March · Winter Swells & Whale Season

Oʻahu’s North Shore transforms into the world’s most consequential big-wave venue. The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing draws the sport’s finest professionals and thousands of spectators to Sunset Beach and Pipeline from November through December. Windward coasts see more rain; leeward sides remain dry. This is also the finest time to witness humpback whales in Maui’s nearshore waters.

The Insider: Every island has a wet windward side and a dry leeward side. Rain in Hilo does not mean rain in Kona. Always confirm which coast your accommodation sits on before adjusting plans.

Where to Stay

The Modern Honolulu

Oʻahu  ·  Boutique Hotel  ·  Waikiki

A design-forward property that manages the rare feat of sitting inside Waikiki without feeling like Waikiki. The rooftop pool and Diamond Head sightlines are among the finest in Honolulu. Its clientele skews younger and more design-conscious than the surrounding resort corridor, a deliberate and welcome contrast.

The Insider: Request a Diamond Head-facing room and reserve the rooftop cabanas at booking. They are among the most sought-after daytime perches in the city.

Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort

Maui  ·  Luxury Resort  ·  Wailea

Set directly on one of Maui’s finest stretches of white sand, the Andaz represents the current standard for what a Hawaiian luxury resort should be: effortlessly appointed, genuinely hospitable, and serious about its food program. The lagoon-style pools and open-air dining are particularly strong.

The Insider: The smaller lagoon pool on the south end of the property draws a quieter crowd than the main pool, a detail most guests only discover by the second day.

Four Seasons Resort Hualalai

Big Island  ·  Luxury Resort  ·  Kaʻupulehu-Kona

Built into ancient lava fields along the Kona Coast, the Hualalai makes a compelling case for being the finest resort in the state. The lava tide pools harbor resident sea turtles that emerge daily with complete indifference to human schedules. This is a quietly extraordinary encounter available to every guest at no cost.

Hana-Maui Resort

Maui  ·  Retreat  ·  Hāna

The only accommodation worth considering if you intend to spend a night at the end of the Road to Hāna. It is utterly remote, deeply restorative, and surrounded by rainforest and black-sand coastline. The absence of urgency here is not incidental, it is the point.

St. Regis Princeville Resort

Kauaʻi  ·  Luxury Hotel  ·  Princeville

Positioned on a bluff above Hanalei Bay with the Na Pali cliffs as a permanent backdrop, the St. Regis commands one of the most dramatic hotel settings in the Pacific. The panorama from the Makana Terrace at golden hour is the kind of view that renders dinner conversation temporarily irrelevant.

The Insider: Arrive at the Makana Terrace at least thirty minutes before sunset. The light on the Na Pali ridgelines in the final hour before dark is one of Kauaʻi’s defining sights.

Koloa Landing Resort

Kauaʻi  ·  Condo Resort  ·  Poʻipū

An intelligent choice for families or extended stays on Kauaʻi’s south shore. Full kitchen suites, multiple pool areas, and immediate access to Poʻipū Beach, one of the island’s most reliably calm swimming spots, make this a practical and comfortable base without the rigidity of a full-service resort.

Where to Eat

Senia

Oʻahu  ·  Contemporary Hawaiian  ·  Chinatown, Honolulu

The most genuinely exciting restaurant in Honolulu. Chef Chris Kajioka brings rigorous technique to dishes rooted in Hawaii’s ingredients and cultures without trading in nostalgia. The menu changes regularly, the kitchen is serious, and the dining room is consistently full. Reservations are required and should be made as far in advance as your plans allow.

The Insider: The chef’s counter is the best seat in the restaurant. Request it specifically at booking because it offers a direct view of the kitchen and typically receives courses not listed on the menu.

Livestock Tavern

Oʻahu  ·  American Brasserie  ·  Chinatown, Honolulu

A Chinatown institution with the rare quality of feeling genuinely local at any hour. The cocktail program is among the most accomplished in the city, the burger occupies a near-legendary status among residents, and the late-night bar energy carries none of the tourist-facing polish that defines most of Waikiki’s dining scene.

Tin Roof

Maui  ·  Local Plate Lunch  ·  Kahului

Chef Sheldon Simeon’s counter-service restaurant is, without qualification, the best introduction to Hawaii’s plate lunch tradition available to a visitor. The setting is utilitarian, the line is real, and none of that matters once the food arrives.

Mama’s Fish House

Maui  ·  Seafood  ·  Paʻia

A Maui institution since 1973 and the most coveted reservation on the island. The fish arrives each morning, caught by named local fishermen whose boats are listed on the menu alongside the day’s catch. The room, service, and setting above the water are all impeccable. Book weeks to months in advance without exception.

The Insider: If a reservation proves elusive, arrive when the restaurant opens and inquire about bar seating or same-day cancellations. The staff is accommodating to persistent guests.

Merriman’s Waimea

Big Island  ·  Farm-to-Table  ·  Waimea

Peter Merriman opened this restaurant in 1988 when the phrase farm-to-table did not yet exist as a marketing category. Thirty-five years later, his direct relationships with Kamuela ranches and Waimea farms remain the foundation of a menu that continues to set the standard for ingredient-driven cooking in Hawaii.

Café Pesto

Big Island  ·  Mediterranean-Hawaiian  ·  Hilo

A reliable and accomplished restaurant anchoring Hilo’s historic downtown. The wood-fired pizzas are creative without being contrived, the local seafood selection is consistently strong, and the setting in a beautifully restored 1920s building makes it the most appropriate dinner for anyone spending time on the island’s windward side.

The Feral Pig

Kauaʻi  ·  Gastropub  ·  Līhuʻe

Kauaʻi’s most spirited argument for the gastropub as a legitimate dining category. Local drafts, thoughtfully sourced wild boar dishes, and a communal atmosphere that reflects the island’s personality rather than performing it. A welcome anchor for the south shore.

Bar Acuda

Kauaʻi  ·  Tapas  ·  Hanalei

A dimly lit, exceptionally good tapas restaurant in the heart of Hanalei town that consistently exceeds the expectations set by its zip code. The small plates are precise, the natural wine list is considered, and the room fills quickly with a mix of long-term residents and well-traveled visitors. Reservations are strongly advised.

Nature & Experiences

Diamond Head Summit Trail

Oʻahu  ·  Hike  ·  Honolulu

A 1.6-mile round trip through the interior of an extinct volcanic crater rewards with unobstructed views across Waikiki and the Pacific. Arrive at or before sunrise to move ahead of the crowds and the heat.

Banzai Pipeline · Ehukai Beach Park

Oʻahu  ·  Surf Watching  ·  North Shore

Between November and February, the world’s most technically demanding wave breaks within yards of the public beach at Ehukai. Watching professionals navigate barrels of genuine consequence from a beach that costs nothing to stand on is one of the great unmediated spectacles in sport.

Haleakalā National Park · Sunrise

Maui  ·  Natural Wonder  ·  Upcountry Maui

Standing above the cloud layer on the summit of a dormant volcano at 10,023 feet as the sun emerges from the Pacific is a genuinely transformative experience. Sunrise permits through recreation.gov sell out weeks to months ahead and should be among the first items secured on any Maui itinerary. Dress accordingly: summit temperatures routinely fall below 40°F before dawn.

The Insider: Haleakalā at sunset requires no permit and is nearly as spectacular. For those who prefer not to rise before 3:00 a.m., the evening light on the crater floor is worth the drive regardless.

Road to Hāna

Maui  ·  Scenic Drive  ·  East Maui

A 52-mile coastal drive through dense rainforest, past waterfalls, bamboo groves, black-sand beaches, and ancient Hawaiian cultural sites. The journey is not incidental to the destination, it is the destination. Allocate a full day minimum, stop at every reasonable pull-out, and resist the impulse to treat it as a logistics challenge to be efficiently completed.

Kīlauea · Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

Big Island  ·  Active Volcano  ·  Kīlauea Summit

Few experiences available to a traveler compare to standing at the rim of an actively erupting volcano and watching the earth’s surface being remade in real time. Check current eruption status through the USGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory before visiting, as conditions change regularly. Night viewing, when lava illuminates the crater interior, is particularly striking.

The Insider: The Kīlauea Iki Trail drops into a hardened lava lake within a crater still venting steam from below. Walking across ground that was molten within living memory is the park’s most visceral hike.

Manta Ray Night Snorkel

Big Island  ·  Ocean Experience  ·  Kona Coast

Several reputable operators run guided snorkel excursions to established feeding sites off the Kona coast, where manta rays, some with wingspans exceeding twelve feet, circle beneath surface lights feeding on plankton. The experience is consistently described by participants as one of the most incredible of their lives.

Na Pali Coast · By Boat or Kayak

Kauaʻi  ·  Coastline  ·  North Shore

Seventeen miles of fluted emerald sea cliffs dropping vertically into the Pacific, inaccessible by road and best understood from the water. Catamaran and zodiac tours depart from Port Allen on the south shore; experienced kayakers may paddle the coast from Keʻe Beach in summer months under the right conditions.

The Insider: Catamaran tours from Port Allen offer greater stability and are the appropriate choice for families or those prone to seasickness. The smaller zodiac boats provide a more immediate encounter with the cliffs but are a significantly rougher ride.

Waimea Canyon

Kauaʻi  ·  Scenic Drive & Hike  ·  West Kauaʻi

Carved 3,000 feet deep into the island’s ancient volcanic interior, Waimea Canyon presents a landscape of such improbable scale and color that Mark Twain’s description of it as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific has never been meaningfully improved upon. The lookout viewpoints are accessible by car; the Cliff and Canyon Trails reward those who go further on foot.

Hanalei Valley Lookout

Kauaʻi  ·  Viewpoint  ·  North Shore

A two-minute stop from the highway above Hanalei delivers one of the island’s most iconic prospects: taro fields flooding the valley floor in geometric patterns, surrounded by layered ridgelines ascending into persistent cloud. Worth pulling over every single time, regardless of how many times one has seen it before.

Practical Notes

Getting Between Islands

Inter-island flights on Hawaiian Airlines and Mokulele average 25 to 50 minutes and operate on frequent schedules. Book in advance during peak season. There is no passenger ferry connecting the main islands.

Getting Around

A rental car is essential on every island except Oʻahu, where Honolulu’s bus network and rideshare cover most destinations. On Maui, the Road to Hāna requires a car. Reserve vehicles well in advance during summer and holiday periods.

Essential Reservations

Mama’s Fish House, Senia, and Merriman’s should be booked before flights. Haleakalā sunrise permits through recreation.gov sell out weeks to months in advance. Treat these as fixed constraints around which the rest of the trip is organized.

Respecting the 'Āina

ʻĀina translates as “land that feeds” in ʻOlelo Hawaiʻi, and the concept carries genuine weight. Leave no trace on trails. Do not remove lava rock, as it is both a cultural transgression and a violation of state law. Maintain a minimum distance of fifteen feet from sea turtles and monk seals. Ask before photographing ceremonial or sacred sites.

Weather by Coast

Without exception, every island has a wet windward coast and a dry leeward coast. East-facing shores receive rainfall and support dense vegetation; west-facing shores are typically sunny and arid. Research which side of each island your accommodation occupies before drawing conclusions about the weather.

Hawaiʻi asks something of every visitor: to slow down, to pay attention, and to understand that the land has been tended by people with a profound and ongoing relationship to it. The travelers who leave most changed are those who let that understanding take hold before they reach for their cameras.