The Travel Guide · Volume 4

Thailand

Thailand moves between extremes. Gilded temples and quiet islands, night markets and long, slow mornings. This guide covers where to go, when to go, and what to pack so you arrive ready for all of it.

The Anatomie Thailand Edit

What to Wear and Pack

Thailand calls for a wardrobe that can handle heat, humidity, temples, boats, long travel days and beautiful dinners, sometimes within the same day. Lightweight fabrics are essential, but so is thoughtful coverage. Temples require respectful dressing, while aggressively air-conditioned hotels, cars and flights make an easy layer surprisingly useful. The goal is not to bring more. It is to bring pieces that can do more.

The Packing Philosophy

Thailand is not the place to overpack. Build the suitcase around lightweight pieces that can be reworn and restyled, one or two easy layers for temples and air conditioning, comfortable sandals, a great pair of sunglasses, swimwear and pieces that transition easily from day to evening.

Kenya Safari Jacket | Kate Pant in Wheat | Flo Pima Cotton Tank

An elevated long-haul uniform. Comfortable enough for the flight, polished enough to arrive at Capella without feeling like you immediately need to change.

Cruz Performance Pant | Siobhan High Neck Top | Jade Button Down

Lightweight coverage is key. Layer the Jade over the Siobhan when shoulders need to be covered, then remove it once you're back outside exploring.

Olie Super Jersey Maxi Faux Wrap Dress

This is the dinner dress. Feminine, flattering and easy enough for Bangkok's climate while still feeling completely appropriate for dinner at Mezzaluna, Chef's Table or Côte followed by cocktails.

Kate Pant in Wheat | Eve Pima Cotton Polo | Delaney Vest in Stone

The softer neutral palette feels especially beautiful against Chiang Mai's greenery, temples and the natural textures of Raya Heritage.

Apiedi Cargo Shorts | Stacey Top

Relaxed and functional for markets, artisan visits and exploring the countryside without looking overly sporty.

Marine Travel Dress

The piece you'll reach for constantly in Phuket, Krabi, Koh Samui and Koh Kood. Breakfast, lunch by the water, wandering the resort, sunset drinks. It does all of it.

Alma Performance Cotton Shorts | Siobhan High Neck Top | Kim Mesh Sleeve Top

Lightweight, breathable and easy to move in when you're getting on and off boats, kayaking through lagoons or spending the day in the sun.

Olivia Ruched Slit Skirt | Flo Pima Cotton Tank

Easy elegance for dinner at Rayavadee, sunset cocktails in Phuket or a barefoot evening overlooking the Gulf of Thailand.

Experience Thailand

Your Guidebook

There are destinations I love visiting, and then there are destinations I keep finding reasons to return to. Thailand is firmly in the latter category.

I’ve traveled through Thailand many times over the years, and every trip seems to reveal another version of the country. A Bangkok neighborhood I hadn’t explored. A dish I can’t stop thinking about. An artisan working in a tradition that has been passed down for generations. A limestone lagoon reached only by canoe. An island that still feels wonderfully removed from the rest of the world.

I’ve long considered Thai food the gold standard of Asian cuisine, but it’s much more than the food that keeps pulling me back. Thailand has an extraordinary ability to deliver true five-star luxury without losing its sense of place. You can wake up in a private pool villa, spend the afternoon eating somewhere with no English menu, have one of the best massages of your life, and end the day barefoot beside the sea.

For this guide, luxury does not mean experiencing Thailand from behind the walls of a resort. Stay somewhere extraordinary. Book the private boat. Have the tasting menu. Then leave the hotel, wander the market, eat locally, meet the artisans, and experience the Thailand that exists beyond the obvious.

That is the Thailand that keeps calling me back.

Bangkok

Bangkok can feel overwhelming when you first arrive. It is enormous, humid, energetic and seemingly always moving.

Give it a minute.

Somewhere between your first bowl of noodles and an unexpectedly quiet temple courtyard, and cocktails high above the city, Bangkok starts to make sense. The trick is balancing the polish with the chaos.

Chiang Mai

If Bangkok is fast, Chiang Mai gives you permission to slow down. Northern Thailand feels different almost immediately. Mountains replace skyscrapers. Lanna architecture, temples, textiles, artisans and regional cuisine give this part of the country its own identity. For a fashion-focused audience, Chiang Mai is particularly special because craftsmanship is not simply something displayed in shops. It remains part of everyday culture.

Isaan

Some of my most memorable Thailand experiences have happened in the northeast, far from the country's famous islands and five-star resorts. Isaan is not where I would send someone looking for another infinity pool. That is precisely why it belongs in this guide. This is where markets, food, artisans and daily life become the experience.

Phuket

Phuket gets misunderstood. For years I associated it with backpackers, nightlife and the sort of beach scene I wasn't necessarily traveling across the world to find. Then I actually explored the island and discovered something completely different.

Phuket is large enough to contain both worlds. You can have extraordinary privacy, spectacular villas, excellent food and beautiful beaches without ever going near the party scene.

Phang Nga Bay & Koh Yao Noi

This is where Thailand becomes almost otherworldly. Limestone cliffs rise vertically from green-blue water. Narrow caves open into lagoons hidden inside islands. Mangroves grow beneath towering rock walls. The best way to experience it is quietly.

Krabi

Krabi is Thailand at its most cinematic. Towering limestone formations, emerald water, jungle and beaches create scenery that almost doesn't look real.

Koh Samui

Koh Samui gives you a different island experience from Phuket and Krabi. It sits in the Gulf of Thailand rather than the Andaman Sea, which matters for both the atmosphere and seasonality. Come here when you are ready to stop moving.

Koh Kood

Koh Kood is for the part of the trip when you are ready for fewer plans, fewer people and a little more distance from everything. Years ago, I started seeking out Thailand's less-developed islands because I wanted to find the country beyond its most commercial beach destinations.

Where to Stay in Bangkok

Capella Bangkok

This is contemporary Bangkok luxury done beautifully. Set directly along the Chao Phraya River, the hotel feels intimate and calm despite being in the middle of one of Asia’s most energetic cities. Its Capella Culturists can also help connect guests with the city rather than simply keeping them inside the hotel.

Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River

A more expansive riverside resort experience with striking contemporary design, beautiful pools, serious dining and enough space that you can actually retreat from Bangkok when you need to.

lebua at State Tower

A longtime Bangkok home away from home for me, and still one of the most fun addresses in the city for food and drinks. Even if you stay elsewhere, make an evening at The Dome part of the trip.

Where to Eat & Drink in Bangkok

Mezzaluna

If you want a true Bangkok splurge dinner, this is it. Mezzaluna combines French technique with exceptional Japanese ingredients, has panoramic views from the 65th floor, and currently holds two Michelin stars.

Chef's Table at lebua

Another two-Michelin-star option at lebua, but a completely different experience. Contemporary French cuisine is presented around an open kitchen, making dinner feel much more intimate and theatrical.

Pink Bar

For champagne before or after dinner. Pink Bar is intimate, glamorous and unapologetically feminine, with a 1950s-inspired interior and balconies overlooking Bangkok.

Sky Bar at lebua

For the iconic Bangkok rooftop moment. The bars at The Dome are walk-in rather than reservation-based, so dinner can easily turn into a progressive evening moving between floors.

Côte by Mauro Colagreco

For an equally special evening without leaving Capella, Côte brings Mediterranean-influenced fine dining to the riverfront and currently holds two Michelin stars.

Eating in Bangkok After Dark

Not every meal in Bangkok should be Michelin-starred one… but even the street food holds Michelin stars, like the famous Jay Fai crab omelet.

One of my favorite ways to experience the city is on a nighttime food tour by tuk-tuk. Let someone who understands the neighborhoods lead the way, try things you might never have ordered yourself, and watch Bangkok change as the temperature drops and the city comes alive.

Chinatown

Go to Yaowarat Road, but don't stop there. Wander deeper into Chinatown, where tiny businesses, noodle shops, markets and food stalls reveal a very different side of Bangkok.

What to do in Bangkok

See the Temples Early

Go early. Very early.

Wat Pho and Bangkok's major temples become dramatically busier as the morning progresses. Jet lag can actually work in your favor here. Start while Bangkok is still waking up, then retreat to your hotel during the hottest part of the afternoon.

See Bangkok From the River

Charter a private longtail boat and explore the Chao Phraya and the smaller canals of Thonburi. Bangkok looks completely different from the water, and a private boat lets you linger rather than following a large group's schedule.

Learn Thai Massage

Wat Pho is closely associated with the teaching and preservation of traditional Thai massage. Rather than simply booking another massage, consider learning about the practice where it has been taught for generations.

Make Time for the Spa

In Thailand, spa time is not time away from experiencing the destination. Thai wellness traditions are part of experiencing it.TTG Tip: Bangkok works beautifully in two shifts. Explore early, retreat to the pool or spaduring the hottest hours, then dress for dinner and head back out when the city starts

coming alive again.

Where to Stay in Chiang Mai

Raya Heritage

One of the most aesthetically beautiful hotels for this guide. Set along the Ping River, Raya Heritage draws heavily from northern Thai traditions through textiles, pottery, baskets, woodwork and natural materials. It feels deeply rooted in its surroundings rather than simply decorated to look Thai.

Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai

A completely different experience, set around rice paddies in the Mae Rim Valley. Come here when you want the full resort experience while still having access to cooking, crafts, markets, wellness and northern Thai traditions. Four Seasons also offers a professional cooking school and can arrange culturally focused excursions.

What to Do in Chiang Mai

Meet the Makers

Seek out workshops where you can actually see artisans working. Northern Thailand has extraordinary traditions in textiles, natural dyeing, pottery, basketry and woodcraft.

For the Anatomie traveler, this is one of the most interesting fashion connections in the guide: understanding the hands, materials and traditions behind what people create.

Learn Northern Thai Cooking

Do not assume the food you ate in Bangkok represents all Thai cuisine. Northern Thailand has its own flavors and traditions. A private cooking experience is one of the best ways to understand the difference.

Explore the Temples With a Guide

Choose a few rather than racing through ten. A knowledgeable private guide changes the experience completely because you understand what you are actually seeing rather than simply photographing it.

Go to the Markets

Warorot Market is worth exploring for food, flowers, textiles and handicrafts, particularly with someone who can introduce you to vendors and explain what you are seeing.

Leave Time for Wellness

Do not schedule every afternoon. Chiang Mai is particularly good at reminding you that doing less can be part of the trip.

What to Eat & Do in Isaan

Eat Everything

Isaan cuisine alone is worth the detour. Think larb, som tam, sticky rice, grilled meats, whole fish and food with enormous amounts of heat, acidity and flavor. Some of the best Thai food I have ever eaten has been in this region.

Udon Thani

Go to the night markets hungry. This is not the place to arrive with a list of restaurants saved from Instagram. Walk. Look. Smell. Order.

Sakon Nakhon & Indigo

Seek out artisans still dyeing and producing textiles by hand. Seeing the process behind the finished fabric gives an entirely different appreciation for what you eventually bring home.

Ban Chiang

Ban Chiang gives the region archaeological and historical depth and is an important counterpoint to Thailand's temples and beaches.

Nong Khai & The Mekong

Slow down along the Mekong and experience a quieter rhythm of Thailand's northeastern edge.

TTG Tip: I wouldn't try to make Isaan artificially luxurious. Hire an excellent private guide and driver instead. Here, the luxury is access, context and having someone who can introduce you to places and people you would struggle to find on your own.

Where to Stay in Phuket

Amanpuri

The icon. Amanpuri remains one of Thailand's defining luxury resorts and is the place to choose when privacy, service and a true sense of escape matter more than being near Phuket's action.

Rosewood Phuket

A beautiful contemporary alternative on Emerald Bay, with a stronger residential feel and an emphasis on wellness and dining.

Sri Panwa Phuket

A longtime personal favorite. I loved the privacy of the pool villa, panoramic water views and feeling of being tucked away at the southern tip of Phuket. I also had a personalized Thai cooking experience here that remains one of my favorite resort memories in Thailand.

What to Do In Phuket

Explore Old Phuket Town

Leave the resort.

Old Phuket Town gives you colorful Sino-Portuguese architecture, shops, cafés and a look at the island's cultural history beyond its beaches.

Take a Thai Cooking Class

This is one of my favorite things to do anywhere in Thailand.

At Amanpuri, the experience can begin in the resort garden selecting herbs before moving into an open-air kitchen. At Sri Panwa, my personalized cooking class became one of the highlights of the stay.

Have Dinner Somewhere Unexpected

Amanpuri can turn its ocean platform into what is essentially a tiny private island for sunset dining. This is the kind of luxury experience worth splurging on because the setting cannot easily be recreated elsewhere.

Book the Spa

A great Thai massage after a long flight is wonderful. Give yourself enough time for a full afternoon rather than squeezing a treatment between plans.

Where to Eat & Drink in Phuket

My Recommendations

Phuket is another destination where I would mix resort dining with local food rather than choosing one or the other. Have the beautiful dinner. Then go eat something simple the following night.

At Amanpuri, dining itself can become an experience. The resort can arrange private beach dinners, a Thai royal dining experience, a sunset dinner on an offshore ocean platform, Thai cooking masterclasses and private mixology sessions overlooking the Andaman Sea.

Where to Stay in Phang Nga Bay & Koh Yao Noi

Six Senses Yao Noi

Come for the setting. The resort places you directly among the extraordinary limestone scenery of Phang Nga Bay and works beautifully as a quieter counterpoint to Phuket.

What to Do in Phang Nga Bay & Koh Yao Noi

Hong by Starlight

This remains one of my favorite experiences in Thailand. John Gray's Hong by Starlight deliberately operates later in the day than many excursions.

Guides paddle you by canoe through tidal caves and into hidden interior lagoons known as hongs. For this audience, I would book the private version if available. You preserve everything that makes the experience special without having to move at someone else's pace.

Stay Out Through Sunset

Do not rush back simply because the standard tour schedule says it's time. A private day on the water gives you the ability to slow everything down.

Where to Stay in Krabi

Rayavadee

The hero hotel for Krabi. Rayavadee sits amid the limestone formations of the Phranang Peninsula and is reached by boat. The setting makes the property feel almost like an island even though it is connected to the mainland.

Phulay Bay, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

A strong alternative for travelers who want a more secluded resort experience and an extremely high level of service.

Where to Eat & Drink in Krabi

The Grotto at Rayavadee

One of the most memorable dining settings in Thailand, The Grotto at Rayavadee is tucked beneath a dramatic limestone cliff directly on Phranang Beach. Tables sit beneath the natural rock overhang with the Andaman Sea just steps away, creating the feeling of dining inside a cave at the edge of the water. Time your reservation for sunset, when the limestone cliffs and sea are washed in golden light. This is one of those places where the setting alone makes the evening worth planning around.Go toward sunset.

What to Do in Krabi

Charter a Private Longtail Boat

Skip the crowded group island-hopping tour.

Take a private longtail boat later in the day, swim when somewhere looks irresistible, and stay out through golden hour. The point is having the freedom to stop rather than racing between famous photo locations.

Railay & Phranang

One of the advantages of staying at Rayavadee is being able to enjoy this extraordinary coastline early in the morning and later in the day when many day visitors have left.

Where to Stay in Koh Samui

Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui

This is the Samui splurge. Villas tumble down a hillside on the quieter northwestern tip of the island, each with its own infinity pool overlooking the Gulf of Thailand.

What to Do in Koh Samui

Charter the Four Seasons Yacht

One of the splurges I would absolutely make.

Take a private yacht through Ang Thong National Marine Park, an archipelago of 42 islands filled with limestone formations, caves, lagoons, beaches and coral. Swim, kayak, snorkel or simply stay aboard with a drink and enjoy the view.

Try Muay Thai

A private Muay Thai session gives the trip an active experience that is actually connected to Thailand rather than another generic resort workout.

Stay in the Villa

Not every luxury experience requires an excursion.

Order lunch. Swim. Read. Have dinner privately overlooking the Gulf. Some days, the reason you booked the extraordinary hotel is to actually enjoy it.

Where to Stay in Koh Kood

Soneva Kiri

The natural luxury anchor for this part of the trip. Soneva's version of luxury is privacy, nature and experiences rather than traditional formality.

What to Do in Koh Kood

Explore Koh Kood

Do not come all this way and never leave the resort. Soneva can arrange private island exploration, waterfalls, forest experiences and time on the water.

Have Dinner Somewhere Special

And I mean that as a compliment.

Options range from candlelit dinner on the pier to a private beach dinner, sunset experiences and even a secluded cave lunch. Pick one and lean into it.

Get Back on the Water

Paddle through mangroves, snorkel, swim or charter something privately. By this point in the trip, the schedule should be getting noticeably emptier.

How to Move Through It

When to Go

Thailand is one destination where “best time to visit” deserves more than a single sentence. Bangkok, Chiang Mai, the Andaman coast and Koh Samui do not all follow exactly the same weather pattern. The cooler, drier months are generally wonderful for Bangkok and northern Thailand. Phuket, Krabi and Phang Nga Bay sit on the Andaman side, while Koh Samui is in the Gulf and follows a different monsoon rhythm.

That can work to your advantage. If one coast is in a less favorable weather period, another may be exactly where you want to go. Plan the islands around the specific month, not simply “Thailand.”

Why Thailand Keeps Calling Me Back

Thailand has given me some of my favorite travel memories, but it is the people who keep pulling me back. It is the warmth you feel from the moment you arrive, the conversations that stay with you and the generosity of people who are genuinely excited to share their culture, traditions and food. It is learning from an artisan in a small northeastern village, talking with a family at a night market or sitting down to a meal prepared by someone whose story makes it even more memorable.

I will happily take the private pool villa, the beautiful beach, the private boat and the Michelin-starred dinner.But the reason I continue traveling this far is the people I meet and everything they teach me along the way. That is the Thailand worth coming back for.